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As mention before, as in real life, in order to succeed in Bridge one needs a good partner.

Therefore, before seating at the bridge table you must know well your partner, his weak and strong qualities, his temper and his way of thinking; and he yours. The two of you must know, understand and agree upon all your conventions and systems.

Once you have established a partnership, in any position and situation during any game, always trust your partner and don’t trust the opponents. Trust between yourself and your partner is one of the most important assets of a successful partnership. Always trust your partner to make the best decision.

Consider your partner to be a mirror image of yourself. Not two different persons are partners; it’s twice you. And you can never go wrong…

Once you understand those rules, you’ll never argue with yourself, sorry, with your partner, at the table during a game.

There are many bidding systems, conventions and signals. Use only those preferred and agreed by both of you. Once agreed upon, both partners should master them and use only them.

It’s possible, in very rare occasions, to deviate from the agreements. In such a situation, after the hand is finished, apologies to your partner and explain him your reasons and actions and always be responsible for the results.

And start looking for a new partner…

Never make any remarks or comments during the game, not to your partner and not to the opponents. Wait until the game is over and only then you may discuss the hand.

Discussing hands with your partner its good tactics to improve your partnership but not at the table during a game. Wait for later.

Probably, choosing the right partner is the most important decision you’ll make. A good partnership is critical for getting good results and enjoying the game.

Once you did find a good partner, be very careful not to lose him. Better lose a few games but be sure to keep him happy.



Hi All !

I just return from a 2 week trip to eastern Europa, Romania, Moldova and Ukraine. A very nice trip!

In Iasi, Romania, I spend a few days with a lovely family (b@b), Lidia tel. +40 0744814046.

In Ukraine I found a lovely motel, Valeria, tel. +38 (03733) 5 07 18

If you pass by stop for a night or two. You’ll enjoy.

I have a new project for Moldova but ill tell you once its finished.



Bridge – 2

Selecting the card:

Partnerships may choose their own method of “carding”. The following is considered fairly standard: 

  • Leading a singleton against a suit contract is recommended only when defender has a trump stop
  • Other short suit (two or three cards) leads:
    • from a doubleton lead the higher card, thus from 93 lead the 9
    • from a three card suit: if headed by an honor (not a sequence) lead the lowest, thus from Q92 lead the 2; f all cards are low, there are three schools of thought: TON “top of nothing” – lead the top card. It has the advantage of denying an honor, but is ambiguous with a lead from doubleton; MUD “middle-up-down” – lead the middle card, and play the highest card next; the lowest card (least popular); if headed by a sequence (even two cards) lead the highest. From QJ2 lead the Q
  • long suit (four cards or more) leads:
    • from a sequence of honors lead the highest, thus from KQJx lead the K
    • from a suit containing an internal sequence lead the top of that sequence, thus from KJ109 lead the J
    • from a suit headed by an honor, defender generally leads the fourth best card, allowing partner to employ the rule of 11. 
    • from all other suits, the highest or second-highest is normally led, especially against suit contracts; some partnerships lead fourth best against notrump though.
  • From hands containing both A and K
    • from AKx or AKxx   lead the A
    • from AK doubleton lead the K
  • Against a suit contract, many partnerships reserve a special meaning for the lead of a T: it promises a touching card J or 9 and a non-touching higher honor e.g. KJT, KT9, QT9.

Ambiguities can arise from this standard method:

  • A defender would lead the 2 from K532 and from K32; does he have a four-card suit or not?
  • Similarly a defender may lead the 2 from 9432 and from KJ92; does he have an honor or not?
  • A defender would lead A from AK2 or from A32; does he have the K or not?
  • A defender would lead the K from AK doubleton and from KQx; does he have the A or the Q?

To overcome these problems various conventions have been devised:

  • Rusinow leads: overcomes the ambiguity of a K lead:

When West leads the K East may be confused as to the nature of his holding. If he is leading from KQ East will want to encourage, but if leading from AK East will want to discourage. Rusinow leads recommend leading the second of touching honors and the above confusion is largely eliminated. 

  • Journalist leads: overcomes the ambiguity of a J lead.

The leader might have JT94 or KJT4. The convention proposes that the opening lead be the Jack from the first sequence and the T from the second in order to better inform his partner about the nature of his holding.



Bridge – 1

If you like to play Bridge follow my posts:

Making the correct lead is critical.
Making the correct lead is probably the most difficult play in the entire game of
In the next pages I’ll try to give you several rules to lead the correct lead. Those rules are based on experience, statistics and commonsense. It’s up to you to sit with your partner and agree upon those rules.
Remember that each lead made or not made is transmitting a message to your
partner containing important information. For example, always lead from AK. Which card to lead depends upon your conventions. If you don’t lead the A or the K your message is that you don’t have any AK combination.
Always ask yourself who will be on lead. If the auction suggests that you’ll be the
opening leader, you should usually pass. Announcing where your strength is will help declarer more than partner.
Most opening leads are relatively easy. If you’re on lead after the opponents bid 1NT-3NT, most of the time the standard fourth down from longest and strongest suit will work well. Also you have an obvious lead after partner has overcalled or when you hold a suit with a strong honor sequence.
In these situations where the choice isn’t so clear your playing experience may give you a good sense of what works and what doesn’t. You must learn the ability to listen to the auction and use the clues to visualize the hidden hands, to imagine the distributions of the hands.
Before playing the first card you must take your time in order to process all the
information and decide to make a passive or aggressive lead, to choose the suit and to choose the card.
Some auctions will tell you that it’s best to make a safe, passive opening lead that
isn’t likely to give declarer an extra trick. These leads are often from topless suits
such as 97542 or T982. On other deals, it will pay to make an aggressive lead, one that might give declarer a trick if partner has no help in the suit, but offers your best chance to beat the contract if partner has an honor or two. Aggressive leads are usually from suits with unprotected honors; for example low from Kxxx.
Which card to lead? There are several approaches in choosing the leading card – top of sequence honors, second touching honor, fourth best from a honor, top of a doubleton, don’t lead from a “tenace” (KJX); from 3 small use MUD or top or low.
Later you’ll find more about the subject.
Basically, there are 2 options to lead from touching honors – the top one or the second one. Always leading one honor promises the other honor; If the touching honors are doubletons inverse the lead.
Never under lead an A (Ax, Axx, Axxx) unless it’s the suit partner has bid.
Always lead partner’s bided suit. Lead the highest card in the suit.
If a partner doubles a suit – lead it.
If partner doubles the contract, lead his bided suit; if both of you have bided lead
your suit; if only you bid  lead your suit; if none of you bided, lead dummy’s suit; if none of you and the dummy haven’t bided lead a unconventional lead; if you and dummy did bid and partner doubles, lead dummy’s suit; if you and dummy bid and you double you are asking your partner to lead dummy’s suit.
If you bid and is to partner lead – without double he’ll lead your suit, with double he’ll lead his suit.
If opponents bid suit refusing NT, lead a trump.
Without any specific information, lead through dummy’s strongest suit if he is on your left side and weakest one if he is sitting on your right side Without any specific information, lead declarer weakest suit if he sit on your right side and the strongest one if he sits on your left side.
When in doubt about what to lead, lead the fourth-best card in your longest suit.
Leading from length is the standard lead to a notrump contract, and it’s often the
safest lead to a suit contract.
A safe lead may also be an attacking combination, such as a suit headed by AK, KQJ or QJT, these are usually good choices for a lead to any contract. If you aren’t dealt these easy holdings, you’ll sometimes have to select a passive lead.
As a rule, the lower the level of their artificial bid, the stronger the suit you need to double.
A double of a Stayman 2C or a transfer bid should promise 5+ cards and at least
three of the top five honors — a suit such as ♣KQTxx .
A double of a Blackwood response or high-level cuebid doesn’t require a long or
strong suit. It shows the ace or king and a reason to believe that suit is the best
opening lead.
A double of a shortness bid should usually be a suit headed by the Ace-King. You may want to consider playing “two-way” doubles of splinter bids: If you’re vulnerable, double is lead-directing (usually headed by Ace-King); If you’re not vulnerable, double shows 6+ cards and suggests a possible sacrifice. If the opponents cue-bid a suit you’ve bid naturally, be cautious about doubling just
for a lead. Partner will usually lead your suit anyway, so use double to describe
something extra. Many players like to use this double to send the message “Good
hand, good suit”.
If you’ve already shown 5+ cards (by opening 1H or 1S or making an overcall), a
double of their cuebid shows a good suit with extra length and extra values. It
encourages partner to compete.
If you’ve opened 1C or 1D, a double of their cue-bid of your suit shows a good 6+ card suit (or a very strong 5-card suit) and extra values.
Another option is to agree that a double says “Don’t lead my suit”.
Again, in IMP scoring events beware from trying for a swing with an unusual opening lead. In the long run, it’s usually best to make your “normal” lead the same one you think will be make by the rest of the field. Save your brilliant defensive plays for later in the hand, when you have more information.
In match-point scoring events make normal opening leads. Don’t try for a “top” by choosing an unusual lead. Against most contracts, choose a safe, non-deceptive opening lead.
Selecting the suit considerations are:
Good suits to lead may be: a suit partner has bid; a suit not bid by declarer’s side; a suit bid by declarer’s partner
Against a suit contract: a short suit lead may be good, but only when it is likely that partner will be able to obtain the lead and return the suit; but leading a suit
containing an ace may be bad
Against NT contracts: leading a long suit may be good; leading a suit in which partner could have length may be good
Choosing an aggressive or safe lead is important: defeating some contracts calls for aggressive leads, while others call for safe leads.


Hello world!

Hi, it’s David and this is my new website. Stay tuned… I’ll have great things to share!

For starters, here’s an article I think you’ll enjoy…

It’s called: “Make the Leap to Home Business Success

Make the Leap to Home Business Success

If you are going to build a successful home business, you need 3 “intangibles.” These are things that must come from WITHIN you.

===> Intangible 1 <===

First, you must have a strong WHY.

Why must you make a home business work? What’s driving you? What is it that you CAN’T have in your life anymore and/or what is it that you absolutely MUST HAVE now?

For me, I couldn’t stand working 12+ hours a day anymore and missing the experience of my children growing up. I also absolutely HAD TO HAVE the freedom of being able to control my life and finances through a little box that I could carry with me anywhere in the world and not be tied to anyone’s time pressures or demands but my own. That was my carrot and my stick. I felt a great pain deep in my gut of missing out on my children’s lives and the incredible freedom that succeeding in this business would provide for me. I found my why. You MUST find yours.

===> Intangible 2 <===

You must BELIEVE that it is possible.

If you don’t believe that it’s POSSIBLE for you to succeed in a home business or make your living on the Internet, you won’t. It’s that simple.

For me, figuring out that it was possible was just a matter of realizing that many other people were ALREADY making great money with a home business online. If they could do it, I could too. It would just be a matter of figuring out what those people were doing and then adapting it to my situation.

There is no shortage of undeniable PROOF that people (millions of them) are making money online in many different ways. Just get online and do some research and you’ll find countless testimonials and stories of REAL PEOPLE making real money on the Internet. Or head to your local bookstore and you’ll find the same documented evidence of this fact. Truth is, it’s getting easier and easier to start and succeed in a home based business. This is primarily because of the Internet and affiliate marketing.

I’ve always said that “affiliate marketing” is the job of the future. In the “old” days, you had to go to a potential employer, apply for the position and hope for the best. Now you can simply go to any company you want, fill out their affiliate application and start work immediately. Affiliates are the new working class. Believe me, making money with affiliate programs or making your living on the Internet is WAY MORE than possible. It is pretty much (or will be soon enough) unavoidable now. Affiliate marketing is the “job” of the future that’s here TODAY.

===> Intangible 3 <===

You must be willing to MAKE THE LEAP.

Ready, FIRE, then aim… This is the operating philosophy you MUST adopt to succeed with an Internet home business.

That’s backwards for most people who like to aim before they fire. The fact is the Internet is a moving target… The only thing constant about it is change. You need to stop analyzing the game and simply jump into it. You can’t learn from the outside… You have to be IN THE RING to truly understand it.

The lesson here is that you will never really be READY to start a home based business. You simply have to start one. This is what I call “Making the Leap.”

The good news is that the cost of failure on the Internet is very small. In the “brick and mortar” world you need to evaluate things very carefully before you decide to open up a business. It’s almost always necessary to invest thousands of dollars to get an offline business off the ground. However, on the Internet you can often start a successful business for less than $100. In fact, Plug-In Profit Site is a really good example of this.

You simply need get IN THE GAME… Each moment that you stay “out there,” you’re wasting valuable time that you could be learning and skills necessary to become a successful affiliate marketer. In fact, if you’re not in the game yet, you’re ALREADY behind the times. Come on… You can do it! Make the leap to becoming a successful home based business owner today!

About the author: Stone Evans was a washed up restaurant worker desperately searching for a way to save his family when he discovered the internet and affiliate marketing… 24 months later he finally cracked the code and started earning over $10,000 per month. Now the same system that saved him is available to you here >>

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